Last weekend we had the pleasure of watching a tope (pronounced TOH-pay) in Nuevo Arenal, Costa Rica. While it wasn’t Kim’s first rodeo (technically it’s not a rodeo AT ALL, we just wanted the wordplay) it was Jamie’s first time watching what is essentially a big horse parade. But these horses didn’t just walk down the street.
They danced!
But why were they dancing? How did they learn their moves? Can any horse dance in a tope? Read on to get these answers straight from the horse’s mouth… er, hoof.
What’s a tope?
Topes are a proud tradition in Costa Rican culture, where the people can show off their deeply historical relationship with horses. Hundreds of years ago, a majority of Costa Ricans (also known as Ticos and Ticas) lived in rural areas on ranches and farms. Families lived and died by what their horses could help them cultivate, so the ties between horse and rider were strong.
Costa Rican cowboys and cowgirls (caballistas) ride in topes to pay homage to those ties. But they aren’t just showcasing the ride. Caballistas devote years to preparing for these events. And they don’t just grab any horse in the pasture.
Prepping for the tope
Finding the right horse is the first step in solving the tope equation. The Costa Rican Saddle Horse is at the top of the list because it’s specifically bred for this event. It’s known for the high-kneed gait that’s essential in the dance moves. Paso Finos are another breed that can punch the dance card well, known for their elegant but fast-paced steps. The Spanish Andalusian’s beauty and elegance makes it another option. Criollo and mixed Latin American breeds are the fourth kind to consider due to their strength, endurance and adaptability to walking on concrete streets for hours.
The above-mentioned breeds all have qualities that make them excellent choices, but none of them automatically know the dance. They must be trained. The future tope champ must be of a certain age before the training can begin. While there are basic lessons that safely start when they are still foals, such as manners and how to walk on a lead rope, the actual riding doesn’t start until the horse is 3-4 years old. Training the horse to respond to the rider’s subtle cues can take months.
Hitting the road
When the horse is ready to bust a move in a tope, the rider will carefully groom him or her to showcase their pride in the animal. The most beautiful tope horses have a clean, glossy coat and a free-flowing, tangle-free mane and tail. Some riders braid the horse’s hair. There are even specialized shampoo for black and white coats.
Special care is also taken with the tack (saddle, bridle, reins) to ensure it’s properly greased and cleaned. The sharper the horse, the deeper the passion and pride of the rider. And the deeper the pride, the stronger the cultural connection.
Ready to dance off into the sunset?
The tope we watched lasted HOURS. At one point, we wondered if the horses were just circling around the block a few times because it seemed to never end. The energy in the air was just as everlasting and we excitedly sat alongside the road and took in the experience.
It was truly one for all the senses: the sight of the horses prancing to their riders’ rhythm, the sound of their shoes hitting pavement, the smell of… well, you know the smell that comes with horsemanship, and the taste of some local street foods. (A few local restaurants were open to feed weary riders and spectators. (Remember when we went to Moya’s all those years ago when Kim and the girls first brought Jamie here? )
When’s the next one?!
Topes across the country throughout the year. Now that Nuevo Arenal’s is over, we will try to check out another in a neighboring city next time. The BIG tope happens in San Jose in December. You can read about that one in The Tico Times here.
